After several builders asked for a trailerable stretched version of the Spray 22, we produced the Spray 27. This can be built in Multi chine steel, aluminium or wood epoxy as well as in Round Bilge Fibreglass (C-Flex or Airex Foam).

There are two basic layouts - either regular or pilot house - and either can be rigged with a gaff sail plan or as a Bermudan sloop. Both regular Trunk cabin and Pilot house versions are included with the plans.

The SUPER STUDY PLAN PACKAGE has details on all the different construction techniques and includes materials lists, both sail plans and the two different accommodation layouts. All to scale and only $27 plus postage.

Dan Aadland's building of his Spray  27 in Wood Epoxy

The lifelong desire to sail has prompted my present (major) project, a Spray 27 cutter designed by Bruce Roberts. This is the second smallest of his Spray series and the larger of the two trailerable ones. A multi-chine plywood design, the cutter can be built with either marconi or gaff rigs and in either pilot house or conventional sailboat configuration. Luckily, decisions on those two matters need not be made until bulkheads are installed, so I have a while yet to decide.
I made two modifications. First, the Sprays have a conventional transom which turns to vertical for the upper one foot. I kept the taper of the transom all the way aft, which will increase cockpit (or lazarette) space and overall length (to about 28'). The shape is more pleasing to my eye. Secondly, I am building the hull with a modified stitch-and-glue or, more accurately, epoxy chine method. I’ve built the hull over the same temporary frames specified but eliminating the chine logs and instead edge-gluing the plywood panels with filled epoxy. The hull is roughed in and when fibreglasses will be turned over with the temporary frames still supporting it. At that point the fillets of filled epoxy will be installed inside as the chines. This modification was done with the blessings of Mr. Roberts himself, incidentally.
A Spring ‘99 Update: I completed the planking, built up the keel with fir, and built a steel ballast box to be later filled with lead and thickened resin.  This ballast box, still empty, was fitted into place and the wooden keel laminated up around it.   Then I removed it to be bolted in position later with the hull upright.  I also located an old-but-good Yanmar 8h.p. diesel, the old horizontal cylinder model, and purchased it for later installation.
  A stern view of the hull, now covered with 6 oz. fibreglass cloth set in epoxy resin.  (Much sanding and fairing remains before it will be ready for paint.)   To turn the hull we had, naturally, a party.  Two heavy poly ropes were run from the ends of the trusses on each side of our pole shed, under the hull (but over the building form), then to cable-type “come-alongs.”  To protect the hull we padded the area with tires and also put foam pipe insulation over the ropes.  Then we cranked on the come-alongs until the hull lifted off the form. We lifted the hull until it went over gently onto the ropes.  Then everyone quickly skidded the building form forward out of the way.  Then we pushed the hull back onto the concrete building platform and blocked it.
  Final positioning of the hull was easy, and with this nice old-fashioned straight keel design, the hull ended up dead level with the waterline (as shown by the marks on the temporary frames still inside).  Emily and I posed in front of our sailboat to be, then she posed me by the stern.  We’re tentatively planing to name the boat Sjo Hest, “sea horse” in Norwegian, a marriage of our Scandinavian heritage and our preoccupation with the world of horses.  Hopefully it will take us over the waters of Puget Sound and the Sea of Cortez. 

Here the ballast keel section is being welded

Ballast keel in position, then being removed after completing lamination of the wooden sections.

Dan and Emily Aadland

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